Fabric Selection
Choosing the right fabric is just as important as choosing the perfect pattern. The wrong fabric can affect the fit, drape, and durability of your garment. This mini guide will walk you through different fabric types, their best uses, and how to select the perfect material for your next sewing project.
Fabric 101
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Fabric 101 〰️
Fabric Selection Made Easy - How to Choose the Right Fabric for Your Project
Let’s start with breaking down the fabrics into 4 types. First, we will discuss woven vs. knit fabrics, some examples, and characteristics. Then we can move on to natural vs. synthetic fibers, some examples, and characteristics.
Woven vs. Knit Fabrics
Woven fabrics (cotton, linen, denim)- Structures, no stretch, ideal for tailored pieces.
Knit fabrics (jersey, spandex, rib knit)- Stretchy, great for comfortable, body-hugging designs.
Natural vs. Synthetic Fibers
Natural fibers (cotton, wool, silk)- breathable, softer, eco-friendly.
Synthetic Fibers(polyester, rayon, nylon)- Durable, less prone to wrinkles, but less breathable
Reading fabric labels and understading the weight and drape also help you decide if a fabric is suitable for your project.
Key things to pay attention to:
1. Fiber content- this determines softness, breathability, and durability.
2. Fabric weight (GSM)- Light fabrics (chiffon) drape well; heavier fabrics (denim) hold structure.
3. Stretch percentage- essential when working with knits.
Pro Tip: Test fabric drape by holding it up and seeing how it falls.
Soft drape = flowy garments, stiff drape = structured garments.
How to Match Fabric to Your Sewing Pattern
NNot every fabric works with every pattern!
Structure vs drape- Does your design need stiffness (denim) or flow (chiffon)?
Stretch factor- Knit works best for fitted designs, while wovens suit structured garments.
Intended wear- Lightweight cottons for summer, wool for warmth, polyester for durability.
Pro Tip: Always check the pattern recommendations before choosing your fabric!
Prepping and Caring
for Fabric Before Sewing
Fabric prep is a crucial step most beginners skip. Let’s discuss some ways to prevent surprises like shrinkage after the garment is sewn.
Prewash & dry fabric- Taking this step will help prevent shrinkage.
Iron or steam fabric- This will help remove wrinkles from fabric before cutting. You want to ensure your fabric is flat and even while cutting. Remember, precise measurements and cuts are key!
Check for fabric grain lines. (additional information found in our patten making section)- to ensure proper alignment.
Fabric is purchased by the yard.
1 yard = 36 inches
Fabrics and Needles
Not all needles suit every fabric. Using the wrong needle or thread size can lead to project issues or technical difficulties like needle jamming.
Silk & Chiffon- Use a sharp needle, fine thread, and tissue paper underneath while sewing.
Denim & Heavy Fabrics- Switch to a denim needle and adjust for stitch length for strength.
Stretchy Fabrics- Use a walking foot and zigzag stich to prevent wavy seams.
Take a look at Schmetz Needle Guide for more details on needle types and their uses.
Still have more questions?
Submit your questions on our FAQ page or contact us!